Dasheen, commonly known as taro root, is a starchy corm grown across many tropical and subtropical regions. The plant’s scientific name is Colocasia esculenta (family Araceae)[2].
Dasheen has large, heart-shaped leaves and an edible corm. Genetic evidence suggests key lineages of cultivated taro trace back to Southeast Asia[3].
For instance, in Hawaiian culture, taro (kalo) is considered sacred and linked to the Hāloa creation story, in which kalo is regarded as an elder sibling of the Hawaiian people[8].
Key takeaways
- Dasheen (taro) is grown for its edible corm; the leaves are also eaten when thoroughly cooked[2].
- It grows best in warm conditions; USDA guidance notes daily average temperatures around 21–27 °C for good growth[2].
- For upland production, best results are often reported on deep, well-drained loams; an ideal soil pH is about 5.5–6.5[1].
- Taro is planted from vegetative pieces (huli, suckers/oha, or cormels), not true seed[9].
- Spacing depends on the system: wetland plantings may be as close as 45 cm × 45 cm, while dryland plantings may be wider (up to 1 m × 1 m)[2].
Climate and soil requirements
Taro thrives in warm, humid climates and is frost-sensitive. USDA guidance describes suitability under daily average temperatures of about 21–27 °C[2]. Upland taro can be grown on many soil types, but best results are typically obtained on deep, well-drained loams with pH 5.5–6.5[1]. Where drainage is poor, raised beds or ridges help reduce rot risk.
Choosing the right variety
Market types are often described as “dasheen” (larger main corm) and “eddoe” (more, smaller cormels). In Hawaiʻi, commonly referenced cultivars include ‘Bun-long’ and ‘Lehua maoli’[6], [9]. When selecting a variety, consider your end use (poi, table taro, chips) and local disease pressure (especially taro leaf blight).
Planting and propagation techniques
| Technique | Advantages | Disadvantages |
|---|---|---|
| Huli (setts from upper corm + petiole) | Uniform stands; widely used in Hawaiʻi | Requires clean planting stock and careful handling[9] |
| Cormels / corm setts | Useful where cormels are abundant; can establish quickly | Small setts can dry out if moisture fluctuates[2] |
| Suckers / side shoots (oha) | Fast establishment; preserves varietal traits | Limited numbers per plant; removal can wound plants[9] |
Planting depth varies by planting piece and system. One USDA guide describes planting in a furrow or hole about 30 cm deep in some South Pacific systems[2]. In garden and upland guidance, planting depth is often shallower (for example, around 3–4 inches / 7–10 cm)[1]. Use enough depth for anchorage while keeping the sett in consistently moist soil.
Spacing. Recommended spacing ranges widely. USDA describes plantings as close as 45 cm × 45 cm in wetland areas and as wide as 1 m × 1 m in dry areas[2]. In small-scale upland plantings, 18–24 inches (45–60 cm) spacing is common[1]. Use wider spacing for vigorous cultivars, poor soils, or mechanization.
Watering and fertilizing
Water management depends on whether taro is grown wetland or upland. Wetland kalo is grown in irrigated terraces (loʻi) with running water; USDA cautions that warm, standing water can contribute to rot in wetland systems[2]. Upland taro prefers consistently moist soil without prolonged waterlogging[2].
Fertility needs vary by soil. Use local soil tests where possible. Organic matter additions (composts, mulches) are commonly used in both traditional and modern upland systems, and drip fertigation is sometimes used in higher-input production[9].
Managing pests and diseases
Common insect pests can include grasshoppers, crickets, thrips, aphids, and leafhoppers/planthoppers[2]. In Hawaiʻi, CTAHR describes the taro root aphid (Patchiella reaumuri) as a serious pest of dryland taro and notes it can reduce vigor and yield[10]. Use integrated pest management (sanitation, weed control, and beneficial insects) and follow local extension guidance for interventions.
Taro leaf blight (TLB), caused by Phytophthora colocasiae, produces dark, water-soaked spots that can expand rapidly and cause defoliation. Management emphasizes clean planting material, sanitation, and resistant/tolerant varieties where available[4], [5].
Harvesting and storing
Harvest timing depends on system and variety. USDA notes wetland kalo may reach maturity in 9–14 months, warm upland sites often mature in about 12 months, and many lowland plantings can be harvested in 12–15 months if weeds are controlled[2]. In some Hawaiʻi garden guidance, harvest is often suggested around 8–10 months[1].
Lift corms carefully to avoid wounds. After cleaning and drying the surface, store in a cool, well-ventilated place to extend shelf life. For poi, quality can decline with long storage, so use promptly.
Cooking and nutrition
Taro is valued for its fine-grained, digestible starch. USDA notes that raw taro can be irritating (acrid) and that cooking is needed to remove the acridity[2]. Wear gloves if sap irritates your skin and always cook corms and leaves thoroughly.
Nutrition varies by variety and preparation. For a current nutrient profile, use the USDA FoodData Central entry for raw taro (Food ID 169308), accessed 2026-01-31[7].
Traditional and modern uses
Across the Pacific, Asia, Africa, and the Caribbean, taro remains a staple in traditional foodways. In Hawaiʻi, taro is steamed and pounded into poi; in many Asian cuisines, it appears in savory stews and desserts. Modern applications include chips, flour, and gluten-free products.
Cultural significance
In Hawaiʻi, the Hāloa narrative frames kalo as an ancestor, underscoring reciprocal care between people and land[8]. This connection highlights how crops like taro shape identity and community.
Conclusion
Successful dasheen (taro) cultivation comes down to matching the cultivar to your site, keeping moisture steady, and managing pests and diseases early. When in doubt, follow locally adapted extension guidance.
FAQs
What is dasheen?
Dasheen is a common name for taro (Colocasia esculenta), a tropical root crop grown for its starchy corms[2].
How do you grow dasheen?
Plant vegetative pieces—huli, cormels, or suckers—rather than botanical seed[9]. Keep soil consistently moist. Spacing varies by system; USDA describes wetland spacings as close as 45 cm × 45 cm and dryland spacings up to 1 m × 1 m[2].
What are ideal growing conditions for dasheen?
Warm conditions with daily average temperatures around 21–27 °C and a long frost-free season[2]. For upland systems, well-drained loams with pH about 5.5–6.5 are often recommended[1].
How do you harvest dasheen?
Harvest when plants are mature; USDA notes maturity varies from roughly 9–14 months in wetland systems to around 12 months in warm uplands, with many lowland plantings harvested around 12–15 months[2].
Is taro safe to eat raw?
No. USDA notes raw taro can be acrid and should be cooked to remove the acridity[2].
References
- University of Hawaiʻi, CTAHR. Taro (home garden fact sheet). CTAHR PDF.
- USDA NRCS. Taro Plant Guide. USDA Plant Guide PDF.
- Ahmed, I. et al. (2020). Evolutionary origins of taro (Colocasia esculenta) in Southeast Asia. DOI: 10.1002/ece3.6958.
- American Phytopathological Society (APS). Taro Leaf Blight overview page.
- Australian Government Department of Agriculture, Fisheries and Forestry. Taro leaf blight (Phytophthora colocasiae) factsheet.
- University of Hawaiʻi, CTAHR. Bun-long (variety detail) page.
- USDA FoodData Central (via MyFoodData). Nutrition Facts for Raw Taro (Food ID 169308).
- University of Hawaiʻi. Ka Wai Hāpai. Hāloa (cultural summary).
- Teves, G. (2015). Growing Upland Taro. University of Hawaiʻi CTAHR.
- Sato, D. (reissued Aug 2000). Taro Root Aphid (Patchiella reaumuri). Agricultural Pests of the Pacific (CTAHR ADAP).
